Tragedy in the Alps

Rob Gauntlett and James Atkinson's fateful journey

Rob Gauntlett was fast-becoming one of Britain's youngest mountaineering heroes. In 2006 he became the youngest Briton to climb Everest aged just 19. The following year, together with his friend, James Hooper, he walked from the North to the South Pole and the pair were named National Geographic Adventurers of the Year for their efforts. But this January, Gauntlett was tragically and inexplicably killed whilst climbing in the Alps with his friend, James Atkinson. Here, Hooper and Gauntlett's brother, Tim, pay tribute to the man they say was an inspiration.

“When we woke at about 6:30 that morning, it was crisp and cold, with the occasional gust of wind, perhaps -25 degrees Celsius or so up on the Mer de Glace. The sky above us was clear, with the exception of a large grey bank of cloud threatening from the Italian side of the glacier. By 9:00am, the sky was entirely clear, a fresh blue, and the sun was bright and unhindered. The slight wind had entirely disappeared. Although the ambient temperature was still cold, the sun was warm and made moving through the deep snow sweaty work. It was a spectacular and beautiful day, one where being up in the mountains makes you feel free in the vastness of the world.”

These are the words of James Hooper, describing the hours prior to the tragedy that killed two of his closest friends and changed his life forever.

On January 9th this year, Rob Gauntlett and James Atkinson awoke early to climb this 15,700ft glaciated peak in the Alps. They were nearing the top when, through reasons still unknown, the friends were killed after falling 600 metres down the mountain. They were just 21 years old. Despite media speculation that an avalanche caused the accident, it is still not known what brought a tragic end to the lives of these two inspirational young men.

The steep granite descents of the notoriously dangerous Gervasutti Couloir, beautifully exposed to nature, high altitude and absolute isolation, are a challenge for many mountaineer. So deceptively steep is it in fact, that it is heavily advised that climbers have steep ice experience of at least a grade four difficulty level. Set in the vast magnificent surroundings of the east face of Mont Blanc in the French Alps, this is a different world. The glacier movements and unpredictable serac (ice shelf) falls do little to deter visitors, with an estimated 30,000 people attempting the summit each year.

Ice climbing to the rocky summits in good conditions should have been effortless for two people as experienced as Gauntlett and Atkinson: With his friend James Hooper, Gauntlett became the youngest Briton to climb Everest aged just 19. The following year the pair embarked on a 35,000 km expedition from the North to the South Pole. James Atkinson, who went to Christ's Hospital School with Gauntlett and Hooper, had assisted them on many of these expeditions, enlisting as Expedition Manager during their successful pole to pole attempt.

Gauntlett's brother, Tim, says his sibling had an incredible ability to inspire all that met him. “Rob was always very approachable, never underestimating anyone. The lovely thing about him was that he saw the best in everyone, recognising a special part in each person. Rob made people feel appreciated, no matter who they were or what they’d achieved.

“The trip to the Alps was never meant to be an expedition as such, which is why it came as such a shock. It was just four lads going on holiday to have fun and spend time together.”

The brothers embarked on a three week adventure across France last summer, something Tim Gauntlett has fond memories of. He recalls an emotional farewell when his brother set off on his Everest adventure three years ago: “I remember him waking me to say goodbye in the middle of the night. After I’d wished him good luck, he looked back as he was walking out of the door and we both broke down.” Standing at an incredible 8,848 metres, Everest is a much more intense climb compared to the 4,810 metres of Mont Blanc.

Mont Blanc

That season alone, the Mont Blanc region saw four deaths. Tobias Granath is an avid climber and mountaineering expert and knows the dangers of the area all too well. “The Gervasutti Couloir is an old climbing route but is not often climbed nowadays. It's probably more often skied. Most of the skiers access it via the north face of Mont Blanc du Tacul, in order to avoid the big serac at the top of the couloir. Usually, you do this in the spring when the snow is more stable, especially on the north face of Mont Blanc, which can be hazardous during the winter months.

“Gervasutti has seen many accidents. The serac at the top is huge and gives a scary impression.”

Since January, tributes from those who knew Rob have poured in on social networking sites. On Facebook, one wrote: “I admired this man ever since I first heard about his pole-to-pole expedition. His loss is as tragic as it is untimely. Maybe it’s some consolation that he managed to pack more into his 21 years than most of us would in 70.”

James Hooper, who joined Gautlett and Atkinson on the fateful trip to Chamonix, remembers speaking to Gauntlett the evening before the accident. “Rob and James left early the next morning to do a spot of climbing, but we had no reason to be concerned.”

After having no response from text messages, later on he became increasingly concerned about their safety. He alerted Mountain Rescue the following afternoon, to be informed that the bodies of two climbers had been found in a couloir around 8 o'clock that morning.

Evidence would later reveal that an avalanche had not been the cause of the fall, and there have been no further investigations into the incident, which has been described as a tragic accident.

Inspirational

Describing his friend as incredibly positive, Hooper explains the extent of Rob’s determination and his unwavering belief in himself: “If he set his mind to something, he would do it. I gave talks with Rob, often to schoolchildren, encouraging them to get out there and make the most of their talent. He inspired so many people, not just through his achievements, but also with his way with people.”

Hooper, Gauntlett and Atkinson shared a love of adventure sport, driven by each other’s passion and dedication. In reference to the ‘180-degree pole to pole voyage’, Hooper says: “The pole to pole trip was very different to Everest and probably the most satisfying. We needed to build up our skills in polar regions, so gaining experience in different environments was particularly important.

“You can’t really deal with it until you’re in those conditions, but one thing Rob and I did prepare for beforehand, was gaining weight ready for Everest. We ate everything in sight!”

James Hooper and Tim Gauntlett each admit to being motivated by the two men they admired so much since their deaths, and are currently taking part in triathlon training in preparation for an Iron Man competition in 2010. Tim Gauntlett says: “I’ve drawn strength from my brother and try not to feel that it’s unfair that he was taken from us. I simply feel extremely grateful to have spent the time I did with him. Whenever I do anything and feel like giving up, I think of what Rob would say to me and it keeps me going, giving me strength.”

There may never be an answer as to why they fell that day, but their memory lives on through the actions and hearts of those that were close to them. A trust has been set up in tribute to Rob Gauntlett and James Atkinson, bringing attention to everything that they stood for. To learn more about the fundraising efforts, visit: www.onemilecloser.com