Peak reading

The best books on mountains

At WideWorld, we've got lost in some fantastic books on scaling the world's peaks. But sometimes it's difficult to know where to start when you're looking for a great read about the brave men and women with a lust for adventure and exploration. So we asked our writers and adventure contacts and came up with the following list. It's by no means exhaustive, and we've probably missed some good 'uns (let us know), but it's a start if you want to dive into the literature of the mightiest peaks on the globe. In no particular order:

1.The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on Mt. Everest – Conrad Anker

Intrepid thrill-seeker Conrad Anker specialises in climbing the most technically challenging terrain in the world. He covers all corners of the globe, from the mountains of Alaska and Antarctica, to the peaks of the Himalaya and the near-impossible walls of Patagonia and Baffin Island. In The Lost Explorer, Anker recalls the discovery of the body of George Mallory on Everest in 1999. His no-nonsense account and analysis sheds new light on the pioneers of early mountaineering.

2. Series by Ken Wilson: Hard Rock (1992), Classic Rock (1978/2007) & Extreme Rock (1987)

The first of the Rock series, Hard Rock is an indispensible 1974 mountaineers guide. Describing 60 of the hardest UK rock climbs of the day, it provides practical advice and information for the most adventurous of modern climbers. Be wary, however, of the occasional route that is no longer extant in modern day climbing.

Classic Rock (1978/2007) came close on the heels of its predecessor and although written in a similar vein, it has a lot more historical information and colour photos. Third in line comes Extreme Rock (1987) which provides information for the more daring (or perhaps slightly insane) mountaineers.

3. The High Mountains of Britain & Ireland – Irvine Butterfield

Stacked with pristine panoramic views and crystal clear maps, this beautifully presented mountaineering guide book covers the 3,000-ft peaks of Scotland, England, Wales and Ireland.

4. The Boardman Tasker Omnibus (1995)

Travelling a little further afield, this omnibus is stuffed full of the journals, correspondence and books of two of Britain’s most experienced Himalayan mountaineers: Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker.

5. High Adventure (2003) – Sir Edmund Hillary

Perhaps a little old-fashioned and faintly bombastic at times, Sir Edmund Hillary’s own account of the first ascent of Mount Everest, first published in 1955, still remains a must-have for any aspiring climber.

6. Himalaya Alpine Style (1995) – Steve Venables and the late Andy Fanshawe

Photo and essay portrait of the peaks of the Himalayas – an essential piece of kit for all those heading towards Nepal. Along a similar vein to Helmut Dumler’s The High Mountains of the Alps (1994) which covers the 4000m Alpine peaks.

7. The Ascent of Rum Doodle (1956/2001) – W.E. Bowman

Perhaps a little less serious than the others, Bowman provides a hilarious spoof account of the first ascent of Rum Doodle, which at 4,500 feet, stands at foot of the highest mountain of the world. Inspired characterisation and uproarious situations will be instantly familiar to anyone who has ever trekked or climbed in the Himalayas.

8. Annapurna - Maurice Herzog

This tells the epic tale of the first successful ascent of Annapurna, the world’s 10th highest mountain. The French expedition, headed by Herzog in 1950, was the first to climb a mountain over 8,000m, setting the standard for later pioneers, and inspiring the likes of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay to conquer Everest a mere three years later. Although slightly archaic in places, the book dramatically and eloquently captures some of the essence of early mountaineering, depicting a sense of adventure and danger that has been lost in much modern climbing.

9. Mad, Bad and Dangerous to Know - Ranulph Fiennes

Thrill seeker to the extreme, Fiennes has brushed with death so many times on his epic adventures that they are almost on first name terms. In his autobiography, Mad, Bad and Dangerous to Know, Fiennes describes his daredevil exploits, recounting tales of leading expeditions all over the world, discovering lost cities, touching both poles and losing more than a couple of digits in the process. This book provides an articulate and inspiring overview of one of the most remarkable adventurers of our time.

10. Touching The Void - Joe Simpson

The Simpson and Yates disaster in the Peruvian Andes has become a tale familiar to climbers all over the world. This remarkable story, told in Simpson’s own words, tells of the fateful climb of the 6,344 metre Siula Grande in 1985. Not only did this book win the 1989 NCR Book Award, but also it was turned into a documentary film in 2003 that later went on to win the Alexander Korda Award for Best British Film at the BAFTAS. It is testament to one of the most amazing pieces of mountaineering lore – a sobering yet inspiring commentary which gives a stark insight into the arduous ethics of mountaineering.

11. The Beckoning Silence – Joe Simpson

A prolific writer as well as self-confessed mountaineering addict, it is in this follow-up book that Simpson seems to finally reach a certain acceptance of himself and the dangers that he habitually encounters whilst climbing. Providing profound insights into the unpredictable and somewhat unfair nature of human life and death, The Beckoning Silence contains some masterful and inspiring storytelling.

12. Into thin Air – Jon Krakauer

Conflicting accounts of the 1996 Everest tragedy provide a heated topic for debate in the global climbing community. The basic facts are clear; 30 climbers began their ascent of Mount Everest on May 9th that year and only 22 returned. In Into Thin Air, Krakauer provides a riveting first-hand account of the disastrous expedition as well as a detailed analysis of the factors leading up to the tragedy. Eloquent and multifaceted, the novel presents a vivid image of the Himalayan context whilst simultaneously conveying the author’s own palpable sense of loss.

13. The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest – Anatoli Boukreev

Responding to Krakauer’s Into Thin Air, Russian mountaineer Boukreev provides an eyewitness account of the 1996 Everest tragedy. Containing the transcripts and debriefing after the tragedy, The Climb presents a vivid account of the ordered chaos on the slopes of Everest, creating a sobering and cautionary tale of the strength of natural forces.

14. Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men and Mountains – Jon Krakauer

This magnificent collection of essays from one of the most fearless of all modern mountaineers paints a vivid picture of heroes, risk-takers, novices and individualists encountered on his travels. Writing about his climbing passion and covering all corners of the earth from Mount McKinley in Alaska to Mont Blanc and the Eiger in the Alps and all the way to Mount Everest in the Himalayas, Krakauer’s fiery passion for adventure can be felt in every word.

15. Minus 148 Degrees: The First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley –  Art Davidson

Contrary to stereotypical 'Boys Own' tales of heroism and valour, Minus 148 Degrees is a sincere story of doubt, failure and ultimately, tragedy. Recounting the winter ascent of North America’s notorious Mount McKinley, Davidson deals directly with the weaknesses of the expedition team whilst remaining unerringly loyal, and lays bare the details of the ordeal at Denali Pass. Cleverly combining striking scenic descriptions with the complexities of human relationships in difficult situations, this gripping novel is a true classic in mountaineering literature.

16. Addicted to Danger: A Memoir About Affirming Life in the Face of Death – Jim Wickwire

Despite the slightly melodramatic title, Wickwire’s candid account of the highs and lows (pardon the pun) of mountaineering creates a stimulating adventure story combined with underlying questions about the meaning of life in the face of danger. With 30 years of climbing experience behind him, Wickwire is more than qualified to recount hair raising tales of Everest, K2, and Mount McKinley amongst others, and his intelligent and profound insights into the meaning of life, death and dying.

17. The White Spider – Heinrich Harrer

Although dwarfed by the dizzying heights of Everest or Denali, the sheer difficulty of the Swiss Eiger slopes secures it a place as one of the world’s most celebrated – and feared – peaks. Crisply written,  this classic tale of derring-do eloquently conveys the frequently misunderstood psychology of the modern climber and the irresistible joy of mountaineering.

18. The Seven Mountain Travel Books (1983) – H. W. Tilman

H. W. Tilman is a name familiar to any well-seasoned climber. Famed for his philosophy that any expedition could be organised on the back of an envelope, Tilman was instigator of many celebrated expeditions around the 1940s. This series will certainly give mountaineers something to get their teeth into. Contents: Snow on the Equator (1937), The Ascent of Nanda Devi (1937), When Men and Mountains Meet (1946), Everest 1938 (1948), Two Mountains and a River (1949), China to Chitral (1951), Nepal Himalaya (1952).

19. The Six Mountain Travel Books (1999) – Eric Shipton

Tilman’s partner in crime, Eric Shipton, has provided an equally as inspiring and thrilling compilation of mountaineering novels, and it's interesting to compare the two contrasting viewpoints from the former mountaineering companions.

Contents: Nanda Devi (1936), Blank on the Map (1938), Upon that Mountain (1943), Mountains of Tartary (1950), Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition 1951 (1951), and, Land of Tempest (1963), along with two articles from the Alpine Journal concerned with Patagonia.

20. The Games Climbers Play (1978) – Ken Wilson (ed.)

This 2006 reprint of a 1978 classic contains a selection of 100 mountaineering articles written by climbers from all corners of the globe. The lively selection and varied tone showcases the finest of essays written on mountaineering. Also see sequel, Mirrors in The Cliffs edited by Jim Perrin.