Back from green hell

Adventuring with the Scientific Exploration Society

John Blashford-Snell founded the Scientific Exploration Society (SES) in 1969 to initiate a worldwide programme of expeditions focusing on scientific, conservation, education and community aid projects. Here, he talks to WideWorld about his latest expedition - to the heart of the Bolivian Amazon. A place known as 'Green Hell'.

John Blashford-Snell sounds every inch the retired army officer with his clipped and calm tones describing the Scientific Exploration Society’s journey back from a corner of the Bolivian Amazon so remote it’s called the "green hell".

Having heard tales of a vanished ancient civilisation on a previous expedition, and knowing that many people in the area were in need of help, Blashford-Snell and his team put together the Koto Mama 7 Expedition. The teams of doctors, dentists, nurses, a biologist, engineers, a geologist and an archaeologist would face floods, knee-deep mud, arduous treks through thick lowland jungle, across pampa and floodplains.

What was the main aim of this expedition?

“We were originally looking for evidence of a meteorite strike, but we didn’t do that in the end, and we ended up doing community aid really. We sank four wells, we equipped the schools, we had a big medical team, three doctors, two dentists and one midwife.

“In part we were looking for the reason for the decline of the Mocos civilisation - there’s evidence everywhere; I mean literally heaps of pottery - but they just disappeared and no one knows why they died out.”

What were things like when you got there?

“We went in at the request of the Geological Institute of Bolivia, but Bolivia is in bit of a mess and the institute had more or less closed up, so we found ourselves having to do more aid really.

“The water in the area is vile, with a lot iron which suggests a meteorite destroyed the Mocos civilisation. We didn’t find any really firm evidence of the meteorite and we covered that ground pretty well. It was difficult, however, because we didn’t have the equipment - the gravimeters and Geiger counters that should have come from the capital.”

What was it like on the ground?

“When we were out there it was the dry season, but the temperature on the first day dropped from 35 degrees to 7. Several rivers burst their banks. One of the Bolivian drilling teams almost drowned when their boat capsized.

“It’s mostly pampa and low lying jungle, very thick, many of mules and horses had a hard time going through it

“Transport around the area was a nightmare - mules and horses, but also carreton which are these wooden carts, with wooden wheels, pulled by oxen. I mean it sounds positively medieval but it works.

“We also used a Peci peci - An outboard engine stuck on the back of a canoe and you’re away. It has a lower draft than a boat and only needs a few inches of water"

What did you find?

“Dolphins - and not just the pink ones of the Amazon, but some which were jet black. It's an isolated population cut off from the Amazon river, and breeding in isolation. They’re very tame, they’ll come right up to you if you’re swimming or the side of the boat.

“Managed to get a few snaps, but you know how it is with digital cameras - by the time the thing goes off the dolphin’s gone.

“Luckily they’re not being hunted; they’re quite well respected. But they need to be the subject of a full-scale biological expedition. All I can say is that they are there.”

What were the different teams doing?

“Well the dentists were especially busy – I mean we took out tonnes of teeth. We brought an ambulance boat - an open boat with a Yamaha engine - for use on the lakes. The area is often flooded so it allows access all around the lake.”

How easy was it set up the wells to provide clean water?

“Sinking the wells was a huge human effort as we had to keep pulling up and dropping the pipe and turning the drill head. It was quite primitive but it worked. We recruited all the local school children and had to keep supplying them with pancakes and popcorn.”

What was the best part?

“Best part? [he chuckles]. Well, when everyone’s back on the plane safe and we all fly out at the end”

What lasting impact would you say you had?

“Well the wells for one but it’s the community aid in general. I mean we delivered literally hundreds of textbooks and supplies to the schools. You see these kids go off, the boys in clean white shirts and there’s mud everywhere and you think how do they keep them so clean. It’s a matter of pride. Some of these schools were just huts in the jungle, some didn’t have chalk.

“That, and the fellow we saved from the snakebite.”

Snakebite?

“Yes a villager got bitten by a snake and we managed to stabilise him and then get him flown out to safety.”

* The expedition was supported by the Simon F. Patino Foundation, the water charity “Just a Drop”, Tui Travel Ltd, Rotary Clubs and kind individuals; for more information, visit: www.ses-explore.org