Irish waveriders

Forget the pubs and quaint villages for just a second: Ireland is a surfing mecca

It's mid-winter and I am sitting on a small white sculpted piece of polyurethane in the icy cold North Atlantic Ocean, dressed head to toe in neoprene with only my face exposed to the elements. The only people around me are a handful of my mates who chat between the sets, and the odd member of the local seal population who pop up every now and again to say hello. After a few hours we leave the water and clamber back up the steep cliff face to our cars. Then, standing beside our vehicles, we begin the daily ritual that is now known as 'The changing race.' The rules are simple: get out of your wetsuit and into your warm, dry clothes as quickly as possible. The winner is the person who loses least body heat and still has enough movement in their fingers to tie their shoelaces.

This is not everyone’s ideal vision of riding the waves, but if you are an Irish surfer then this is an experience you'll be all-too familiar with. With the water temperature around 8-10°C, a thick 5mm wetsuit with additional booties, hood and gloves are the only way to go to beat the cold. Only then can you relax and truly enjoy the delights of the wild, wave-rich coastline and the crystal green waters of the Emerald Isle.

For those of you who have never thought of Ireland as a leading surfing destination, then think again. Kelly Slater, the now nine-time world surfing champion describes the country as a “cold water paradise.” Although Irish surf history is quite short, dating back to the early 1960s, it is possible to trace a line back to the legendary Irish/Hawaiian waterman George Freeth, born in Honolulu in 1883. Freeth was the son of an Irishman and was one of the pioneers responsible for the re-birth of the sport of Hawaiian kings in the early 20th Century. His story, together with the history of Irish surfing and the stories of the pioneers of Irish big wave surfing are told in a new film, Waveriders. The film features interviews with big-wave riders Richie Fitzgerald, Gabe Davies and the Malloy brothers among others, and ends with groundbreaking footage of Irish and British surfers riding the biggest waves that Ireland has to offer.

The film features an assortment of surfers from across Ireland and elsewhere, and the soundtrack – U2, The Undertones, Rory Gallagher and Jape – remains faithful to the theme. Irish actor Cillian Murphy narrates a film that has the Irish coastline as its stunning backdrop. Last year it took the Audience Award for Best Film at the Dublin International Film Festival.

Irish surf culture does not follow the usual rules; you won’t see many people lying on the beach in a pair of shorts, or any bikini-clad women tanning themselves on the shore. Function over fashion is the aim of the game (it’s hard to look good in a wetsuit), and so Irish surfers are a very humble and down to-earth bunch. Post-surf, if you’ve been sharing the waves with the locals, you’ll most likely be sharing a pint or two with them in the local pub after as well. Ireland boasts some high-quality beach, reef and point-break waves, and if you're prepared to face the cold (summer is good too although the water is obviously more crowded), then your only limits are your own. What this little island may lack in population, it makes up for in its personality and quality of waves.

4 top Irish surf spots

1. Causeway Coast

The 26 miles from Ballycastle to Benone feature some of the best waves in Ireland, with Portrush being the focal point. All levels catered for from beginner to advanced as there are numerous options depending on the swell and wind etc.

2. Donegal Bay

Featuring the oldest surf club in Ireland in Rossnowlagh, and world class waves around Bundoran, this is one area any travelling surfer should check out. Various waves can be found all over the numerous beaches and reefs.

3. Co. Clare

A big county of which the surfing capital is the quaint little town of Lahinch. No matter what the swell waves can always be found along the coastline here, many hidden little gems are about - you just have to find them!

4. Co. Kerry

'The Kingdom', as it is known, has some great waves dotted along the Dingle Peninsula. Inch reefs boasts one of the longest waves in Ireland when it works, but again there many other options available for all levels.

Want to surf? Go to the WideWorld Directory to search for surf schools around the UK